Revision [4952]

Last edited on 2016-03-30 10:31:24 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
Using a knife, the soundpost resting on your workbench, cut a sliver of wood from both ends and reinsert again. Try to get a feeling for this, do as many cuts as possible, trying to get thin slivers, to get the hang of it. You should be able to remove just part or the diameter or a whole consistently thick wafer if needed.
Deletions:
Using a knife, the soundpost resting on your workbench, cut a sliver of wood from both ends and reinsert again. Try to get a feeling for this, do as many cuts as possible, trying to get thin slivers, to get the hang of it. You should be able to remove just part of the diameter of a whole consistently thick wafer if needed.


Revision [4951]

Edited on 2016-03-30 10:27:14 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
To measure the required length of the soundpost, insert a pencil (or the soundpost blank) in the right upper f-hole eye at the right angle to the plane of the violin, until its tip touches the back plate. The point on the pencil level with the top of the arch at the center of the violin denotes the approximate length needed.
Deletions:
To measure the required length of the soundpost, insert a pencil /or the soundpost blank/ in the right upper f-hole eye at the right angle to the plane of the violin, until its tip touches the back plate. The point on the pencil level with the top of the arch at the center of the violin denotes the approximate length needed.


Revision [4950]

Edited on 2016-03-30 10:26:56 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
To measure the required length of the soundpost, insert a pencil /or the soundpost blank/ in the right upper f-hole eye at the right angle to the plane of the violin, until its tip touches the back plate. The point on the pencil level with the top of the arch at the center of the violin denotes the approximate length needed.
Deletions:
To measure the required length of the soundpost, insert a pencil in the right upper f-hole eye at the right angle to the plane of the violin, until its tip touches the back plate. The point on the pencil level with the top of the arch at the center of the violin denotes the approximate length needed.


Revision [4949]

Edited on 2016-03-29 23:51:17 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
Use a razor sharp knife. Avoid files even though they may seem easier to work with in the beginning. The knife gives you the precision and flexibility needed. You know how much wood and where you have removed.
Deletions:
Use a razor sharp knife. Avoid the use of files even though they may seem easier to work with in the beginning. The knife gives you the precision and flexibility needed. You know how much wood and where you have removed.


Revision [4948]

Edited on 2016-03-29 23:49:44 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
You can measure the position of the soundpost relative to the bridge foot using a simple strip of thicker paper, cut in the middle, as in **Fig 3**.
Deletions:
You can measure the position of the soundpost relative to the bridge foot using a simple strip of thicker paper, cut in the middle, as in **Fig 3**


Revision [4947]

Edited on 2016-03-29 23:30:08 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 450px; width: 275px;'></div>
Deletions:
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 400px; width: 275px;'></div>


Revision [4946]

Edited on 2016-03-29 23:27:29 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
You can measure the position of the soundpost relative to the bridge foot using a simple strip of thicker paper, cut in the middle, as in **Fig 3**
Deletions:
You can measure the position of the soundpost relative to the bridge foot using a simple strip of paper, cut in the middle, as in **Fig 3**


Revision [4945]

Edited on 2016-03-29 23:26:46 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 400px; width: 275px;'></div>
Deletions:
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 300px; width: 275px;'></div>


Revision [4944]

Edited on 2016-03-29 23:26:23 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
You can measure the position of the soundpost relative to the bridge foot using a simple strip of paper, cut in the middle, as in **Fig 3**
Deletions:
You can measure the position of the soundpost relative to the bridge foot using a simple strip of paper, as in **Fig 3**


Revision [4943]

Edited on 2016-03-29 23:25:41 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
<div class='obrazek'><div>3</div><a href='/Building/Setup/Soundpost/3.svg'><img src="/Building/Setup/Soundpost/3.svg"/></a></div>
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 300px; width: 275px;'></div>
Deletions:
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 600px; width: 275px;'></div>


Revision [4942]

Edited on 2016-03-29 14:58:52 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
You need good quality spruce. It should be straight, and to ensure it has no runoff, it should be split. It should also be dense enough - ideally have around **5-6 annual rings** in its final diameter (6 mm). The wood for the top plate is usually good for soundposts, but it varies in density, so split off a piece that has the required number of rings and is approximately **8 x 8 mm** wide. The length of about **70 mm** should be enough.
Deletions:
You need good quality spruce. It should be straight, and to ensure it has no runoff, it should be split. It should also be dense enough - ideally have around **5-6** annual rings in its final diameter (6 mm). The wood for the top plate is usually good for soundposts, but it varies in density, so split off a piece that has the required number of rings and is approximately **8 x 8 mm** wide. The length of about **70 mm** should be enough.


Revision [4941]

Edited on 2016-03-29 14:57:21 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
The diameter of the finished soundpost is about **6 mm**. The length depends on the arching, but may be a little above **50 mm** in most cases.
To measure the required length of the soundpost, insert a pencil in the right upper f-hole eye at the right angle to the plane of the violin, until its tip touches the back plate. The point on the pencil level with the top of the arch at the center of the violin denotes the approximate length needed.
You need good quality spruce. It should be straight, and to ensure it has no runoff, it should be split. It should also be dense enough - ideally have around **5-6** annual rings in its final diameter (6 mm). The wood for the top plate is usually good for soundposts, but it varies in density, so split off a piece that has the required number of rings and is approximately **8 x 8 mm** wide. The length of about **70 mm** should be enough.
Now you need to round the stick, either by turning on a small lathe, or using your hand drill clamped in a vice, the stick fastened in stead of your regular drill bit. Use coarse {80} sandpaper and wrap it around the turning stick to remove material. Keep moving the sandpaper up and down the stick to achieve consistent thickness. When you have reached **6 mm** everywhere, you are finished.
Or you can, of course, buy the soundpost blanks pre-made.
Using a knife, the soundpost resting on your workbench, cut a sliver of wood from both ends and reinsert again. Try to get a feeling for this, do as many cuts as possible, trying to get thin slivers, to get the hang of it. You should be able to remove just part of the diameter of a whole consistently thick wafer if needed.
The default position for the soundpost is about **2.5 mm** behind the treble foot of the bridge, see **Fig 1**. You should aim to reach this position before adjusting the soundpost to change the sound.
The soundpost is held in position with the help of the soundpost setter, as in **Fig 2** While the soundpost is inserted, you may keep the setter attached to the soundpost for easier manipulation.
This requires patience. Keep cutting and reinserting, inspecting the fit, also using the inspection mirror for parts where you cannot look. Perceive how both the top and the bottom plates are angled as you proceed more to the right side. The goal is to get the soundpost approximately in the position in **Fig 1** standing at right angle to the plane of the plates, in full contact with the plates. Again, make sure the soundpost is perfectly perpendicular to the violin plane, both when you see it through the f-holes and the end-pin hole.
Once you have reached the default position. Check everything sits perfectly, both through the f-hole and the end-pin hole, using the mirror. It is important that the soundpost be put in its default position with just light force.
The soundpost serves as a kind of fulcrum for the top plate so its position influences the action of the plates, the bridge and the strings. With this in mind, you can change to a certain degree the timbre of the violin (and playability). With the soundposts position you not only change the spatial relationship between it and the moving parts but also the tension. The more east you go, the more tension you get.
Deletions:
The diameter of the finished soundpost is about 6 mm. The length depends on the arching, but may be a little above 50 mm in most cases.
To measure the length of the soundpost, insert a pencil in the right upper f-hole eye at the right angle to the plane of the violin, until its tip touches the bottom of the back. The point on the pencil level with the top of the arch in the center of the violin denotes the approximate length.
You need good quality spruce wood. It should be straight, and to ensure it has no runoff, it should be split. It should also be dense enough, therefore, it should have somewhere around 5-6 annual rings in its final diameter. The wood for the top plate is usually good for soundposts, but it varies in density, so split off a piece that has the required number of rings and is approximately 8 x 8 mm wide. The length of about 70 mm should be enough.
Now you need to round the stick, either by turning on a small lathe, or using your hand drill clamped in a vice, the stick fastened in stead of your regular drill bit. Use coarse {80} sandpaper and wrap it around the turning stick to remove material. Keep moving the sandpaper up and down the stick to achieve consistent thickness. When you have reached 6 mm everywhere, you are finished.
Or you can buy the soundpost blanks premade.
Using a knife, the soundpost resting on your workbench, cut a sliver of wood from both ends and reinsert again. Try to get a feeling for this, do as many cuts as possible, trying to get thin slivers, to get the hang of it. You should be able to remove just part of the diameter of a whole consistenly thick wafer if needed.
The default position for the soundpost is about 2.5 mm behind the treble foot of the bridge, see **Fig 1**. You should aim to reach this position before adjusting the soundpost to change the sound.
The soundpost is held in position with the help of the soundpost setter, as in **Fig 2** While the soundpost is inserted, you may keep the setter on for easier manipulation.
Keep cutting and reinserting, inspecting the fit also using the inspection mirror for parts where you cannot look. Perceive how both the top and the bottom plates are angled as you proceed more to the right side. The goal is to get the soundpost approximately in the position in **Fig 1** standing at right angle to the plane of the plates, in full contact with the plates. Again, make sure the soundpost is perfectly perpendicular to the violin plane, both when you see it through the f-holes and the endpin hole.
Once you have reached the default position. Check everything sits perfectly, both through the f-hole and the endpin hole, using the mirror. It is important that the soundpost be put in its default position with just light force.
The soundpost serves as a kind of fulcrum for the top plate so its position influences the action of the plates, the bridge and the strings. With this in mind, you can change to a certain degree the timbre of the violin. With the soundposts position you not only change the spatial relationship between it and the moving parts but you also change the tension. The more east you go, the more tension you get.


Revision [4581]

The oldest known version of this page was created on 2015-05-22 13:11:49 by Vojtech Blahout