Revision [4907]

Last edited on 2016-03-03 12:20:48 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Using your saw, start making incisions at both sides of the neck, about **1 cm** apart, starting with the neck root on up to the heel. Make sure you stop **1 mm** short both of the fingerboard and the line on the underside. See **Fig. 1.** for reference.
~1) With a chisel chop off the resulting blocks of wood, working away from the fingerboard. To keep the splitting under control, work gradually, removing slices rather than whole blocks.
~1) Finish the **10 mm** wide part **"a"** in **Fig. 2.**, adjacent to the fingerboard, with a file. The file should be slightly angled away from the fingerboard. Be careful not to cut into the fingerboard too much. Create a surface that flows smoothly into the fingerboard sides. See **Fig. 2.** for the enlarged cross section of the finished neck.
~1) First, take a look at **Fig. 3.**, namely the neck **"A"**. Scribe two marks **"a"** and **"b"** on each side of the neck, at the distance of **25 mm** from the nut and **50 mm** from the neck root.
~1) On both sides, mark the thicknesses **"c"** **19 mm** and **"d"** **21 mm** /18.5 and 20.5 being the final thicknesses on the finished neck/ in these areas, measured including the fingerboard.
~1) Measure **110 mm** from the heel towards the neck root and make a mark **"e"**, which will serve to position the template.
~1) Using this template, transfer the contour marked "root" so that it is aligned with the mark on the neck root. Use the "chin" end of the template to transfer the contour of the heel on the unfinished heel. Repeat on the other side.
~1) Take look at neck **"B"** in **Fig. 3.**. Make incisions **1 cm** apart ending **1 mm** clear of the two dashed lines you just created.
~1) Along the length of the underside of the neck, scribe a parallel line at about **1/3 distance** from the fingerboard, see **Fig. 4.** The same on the other side.
~1) Using a file, start getting closer to the final curvature of the neck, check often with the template **"g"** and **"h"** at the points **"c"** and **"d"**. Keep checking the thicknesses in these points too. When the template almost fits, you should be close to the numbers **"c"** **19 mm** and **"d"** **21 mm**.
~1) Using your knife, create the shape of the nape, make sure its contour flows smoothly into the pegbox sidewalls.
~1) Using your knife, roughly form the round shape of the heel. The final shaping is done later with the neck glued on. --- --- **The final shaping of the neck is done later with the neck glued on.**
~1) Trim the ends of the nut so that they are flush with the finished surfaces. They should form a smooth transition from the sides of the fingerboard, usually widening a little to accommodate the peg box walls. Finish with fine file.
Deletions:
~1) Using your saw, start making incisions at both sides of the neck, about 1 cm apart, starting with the neck root on up to the heel. Make sure you stop 1 mm short both of the fingerboard and the line on the underside. See **Fig. 1.** for reference.
~1) With a chisel chop off the resulting blocks of wood, working away from the fingerboard. Gradually, not whole blocks at once, but rather in slices to keep the splitting under control.
~1) Finish the 10 mm wide part **"a"** in **Fig. 2.**, adjacent to the fingerboard, with a file. The file should be slightly angled away from the fingerboard. Be careful not to cut into the fingerboard too much. Create a surface that flows smoothly into the fingerboard sides. See **Fig. 2.** for the enlarged cross section of the finished neck.
~1) First, take a look at **Fig. 3.**, namely the neck **"A"**. Scribe two marks **"a"** and **"b"** on each side of the neck, at the distance of 25 mm from the nut and 50 mm from the neck root.
~1) On both sides, mark the thicknesses **"c"** 19 mm and **"d"** 21 mm in these areas, measured including the fingerboard.
~1) Measure 110 mm from the heel towards the neck root and make a mark **"e"**, which will serve to position the template.
~1) Using this template, transfer the contour marked **"root"** so that it is aligned with the mark on the neck root.
~1) Use the **"chin"** end of the template to transfer the contour of the heel on the unfinished heel.
~1) Repeat on the other side.
~1) Take look at neck **"B"** in **Fig. 3.**. Make incisions 1 cm apart ending 1 mm clear of the two dashed lines you just created.
~1) Along the length of the underside of the neck, scribe a parallel line at about 1/3 distance from the fingerboard, see **Fig. 4.** The same on the other side.
~1) Using a file, start getting closer to the final curvature of the neck, check often with the template **"g"** and **"h"** at the points **"c"** and **"d"**. Keep checking the thicknesses in these points too. When the template almost fits, you should be close to the numbers **"c"** 19 mm and **"d"** 21 mm. The final shaping is done later with the neck glued on.
~1) Using your knife, create the shape of the nape, make sure its contour flows smoothly into the pegbox sidewalls. The final shaping is done later with the neck glued on.
~1) Using your knife, roughly form the round shape of the heel, which will be finished later when the neck has been glued on. The final shaping is done later with the neck glued on.
~1) Trim the ends of the nut so that they are flush with the finished surfaces. They should form a smooth transition from the sides of the fingerboard, usually widening a little to accomodate the peg box walls. Finish with fine file.
The final shaping is done with the neck glued on.


Revision [4479]

The oldest known version of this page was created on 2014-08-18 12:32:32 by Vojtech Blahout