Revision [5009]

Last edited on 2017-09-13 11:53:02 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Cut the ebony block to the correct length so that it fits the mortice easily. Remember that later on, as the top plate shrinks in dry weather, this block of ebony shrinks much less in extreme cases causing the top plate to split. So the fit must not be too tight, the saddle should fall out if you hold the body upside down.
~1) Put the saddle back in the mortice and make sure the front and sides run down smoothly to the plate`s level.
~1) When dry, using a file, on the back of the saddle, recreate the outline of the plate. Make the bottom of the back of the saddle round so that it naturally continues the overhang.
Deletions:
~1) Cut the ebony block to the correct length so that it fits the mortice easily. Remember that later on, as the top plate shrinks in dry weather, this block of ebony shrinks much less in extreme cases causing the top plate to split. So the fit must not be too tight.
~1) Put the saddle back in the mortice and make sure the front and sides run down smoothly to the plate`s level. Also, make sure the sadle is put in its position without any force. There should be a slight gap where each of the ends meet the top and the saddle should fall out if you flip the violin belly down. This rather loose fit hels prevent cracking in the top if the spruce dries out too much.
~1) When dry, using a file, on the back of the saddle, recreate the outline of the plate. On the bottom of the back, make it round so that it naturally continues the overhang.


Revision [4923]

Edited on 2016-03-16 11:07:00 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Remove the material in the same way as in the neck mortice, down to the ribstock.
Deletions:
~1) Remove the material in the same way as in the neck mortice, down to the ribstock. Clean it up.


Revision [4922]

Edited on 2016-03-16 10:41:49 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) On the top of the saddle, mark the center **c** and from it, using a compass, mark two lines **a** and **b**, **9 mm** from the center on both sides. See **Fig. 4**.
Deletions:
~1) On the top of the saddle, mark the center **c** and from it, using a compass, mark two lines **a** and **b** 9 mm from the center on both sides. See **Fig. 4**.


Revision [4921]

Edited on 2016-03-16 10:41:22 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Depending on your judgement and the violin you are copying decide what the actual width of the saddle will be. Usually, its width is between **32-35 mm**.
~1) Prepare a block of ebony, about **8 x 7 x 35 mm**.
~1) Choose what will become the back of the saddle in contact with the mortice in the plate and make those two sides at right angles to each other, the **8 mm** side going up.
~1) Plane the front side of the saddle down to the marked level at the angle of about **60 degrees**. See the side view of the saddle in **Fig. 3.**
~1) Decide on the height of the saddle. Normally its about **3 mm** but with higher arches it can be slightly more.
Deletions:
~1) Depending on your judgement and the violin you are copying decide what the actual width of the saddle will be. Usually, its width is between 32-35 mm.
~1) Prepare a block of ebony, about 8 x 7 x 35 mm.
~1) Choose what will become the back of the saddle in contact with the mortice in the plate and make those two sides at right angles to each other, the 8 mm side going up.
~1) Plane the front side of the saddle down to the marked level at the angle of about 60 degrees. See the side view of the saddle in **Fig. 3.**
~1) Decide on the height of the saddle. Normally its about 3 mm but with higher arches it can be slightly more.


Revision [4534]

The oldest known version of this page was created on 2015-01-09 18:43:14 by Vojtech Blahout