Revision [4936]

Last edited on 2016-03-22 16:05:39 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) At each mark, drill a **1,5 mm** hole for the **G, D, A** strings and **1 mm** hole for the **E** string.
Deletions:
~1) At each mark, drill a **1,5 mm** hole for the **G, D, A** strings and **1 mm** hole for the **E** string. Finish the openings of the holes with a round file. Reinsert the pegs and check that all the holes are accessible.


Revision [4935]

Edited on 2016-03-22 15:50:26 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Using your scribe, make a mark about **4 mm** in from the inner pegbox wall at the side of the peg's head. Repeat with the remaining pegs. Make sure the marks are well centered.
Deletions:
~1) Using your scribe, make a mark about **4 mm** in from the inner pegbox wall from the side of the peg's head. Repeat with the remaining pegs. Make sure the marks are well centered.


Revision [4934]

Edited on 2016-03-22 15:49:31 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Insert one of the pegs, turn a few times. At this point the distance from the pegbox wall to the collar should be about **15 mm**. Remove the peg to see whether the pegbox walls have left the shiny rings on the peg meaning there is a full contact with the holes.
Deletions:
~1) Insert one of the pegs, turn a few times. At this point the distance from the pegbox wall to the collar should be about **15 mm**. Remove the peg to see whether the pegbox walls have left the shiny rings on the peg meaning there is a full contact with the holes. This is important - the pegs must be in full contact with the walls to remain in tune.


Revision [4933]

Edited on 2016-03-22 15:48:20 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Insert one of the pegs, turn a few times. At this point the distance from the pegbox wall to the collar should be about **15 mm**. Remove the peg to see whether the pegbox walls have left the shiny rings on the peg meaning there is a full contact with the holes. This is important - the pegs must be in full contact with the walls to remain in tune.
Deletions:
~1) Insert one of the pegs, turn a few times. At this point the distance from the pegbox wall to the collar should be about **15 mm**. Remove the peg to check that the contact with the holes is full.


Revision [4932]

Edited on 2016-03-22 15:45:03 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Insert one of the pegs, turn a few times. At this point the distance from the pegbox wall to the collar should be about **15 mm**. Remove the peg to check that the contact with the holes is full.
Deletions:
~1) Insert one of the pegs, turn a few times. At this point the distance from the pegbox wall to the collar should be about **14 mm**. Remove the peg to check that the contact with the holes is full.


Revision [4931]

Edited on 2016-03-22 15:07:26 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) When the endpin is about **1 mm** from being fully inserted stop. Put a bit of dry soap on it and carefully try to insert it fully. The endpin must sit in its position securely yet must be easy to remove so avoid using excessive force to drive it in. If necessary, ream the hole A LITTLE and try again.
Deletions:
~1) When the endpin is about 1 mm from being fully inserted stop. Put a bit of dry soap on it and carefully try to insert it fully. The endpin must sit in its position securely yet must be easy to remove so avoid using excessive force to drive it in. If necessary, ream the hole A LITTLE and try again.


Revision [4930]

Edited on 2016-03-22 15:06:49 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Insert one of the pegs, turn a few times. At this point the distance from the pegbox wall to the collar should be about **14 mm**. Remove the peg to check that the contact with the holes is full.
Deletions:
~1) Insert one of the pegs, turn a few times. At this point the distance from the pegbox wall to the collar should be about 14 mm. Remove the peg to check that the contact with the holes is full.


Revision [4929]

Edited on 2016-03-22 15:06:17 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Make sure the shaper blades are very sharp {if sharpening, make sure the blades are resharpenable, HSS, not just surface hardened} and also that they project over the holes by **0.25 to 0.75 mm**. They should also project over the fron side of the mouth opening by approximately **0.5 to 1 mm**. This will allow for a close shave with no tearing.
~1) You need to test the alignment on some scrap wood. Drill the **6 mm** hole, preferably in maple, drive the reamer through it and shape a piece of hard wood, preferably ebony to match it. Put the shaped peg in the hole, turn quickly, pull out to see whether there is contact along the whole length. If there is, you have your reamer and shaper matched.
~1) Insert the reamer into the smallest hole of the shaper and make a mark using a permanent marker about **1 cm** in on the reamer. The initial reaming will be done up to this mark.
~1) If all is fine, continue carefully reaming each hole so that the inserted pegs` heads are just a little bit over **10 mm** from the pegbox walls.
~1) Using your scribe, make a mark about **4 mm** in from the inner pegbox wall from the side of the peg's head. Repeat with the remaining pegs. Make sure the marks are well centered.
~1) At each mark, drill a **1,5 mm** hole for the **G, D, A** strings and **1 mm** hole for the **E** string. Finish the openings of the holes with a round file. Reinsert the pegs and check that all the holes are accessible.
Deletions:
~1) Make sure the shaper blades are very sharp {if sharpening, make sure the blades are resharpenable, HSS, not just surface hardened} and also that they project over the holes by 0.25 to 0.75 mm. They should also project over the fron side of the mouth opening by approximately 0.5 to 1 mm. This will allow for a close shave with no tearing.
~1) You need to test the alignment on some scrap wood. Drill the 6 mm hole, preferably in maple, drive the reamer through it and shape a piece of hard wood, preferably ebony to match it. Put the shaped peg in the hole, turn quickly, pull out to see whether there is contact along the whole length. If there is, you have your reamer and shaper matched.
~1) Insert the reamer into the smallest hole of the shaper and make a mark using a permanent marker about 1 cm in on the reamer. The initial reaming will be done up to this mark.
~1) If all is fine, continue carefully reaming each hole so that the inserted pegs` heads are just a little bit over 10 mm from the pegbox walls.
~1) Using your scribe, make a mark about 4 mm in from the inner pegbox wall from the side of the peg's head. Repeat with the remaining pegs. Make sure the marks are well centered.
~1) At each mark, drill a 1,5 mm hole for the G, D, A strings and 1 mm hole for the E string. Finish the openings of the holes with a round file. Reinsert the pegs and check that all the holes are accessible.


Revision [4597]

The oldest known version of this page was created on 2015-09-29 12:50:29 by Vojtech Blahout