Home - Neck and scroll - Cutting the volute
First of all, it is great to have a good finished neck at hand for reference. If you do not have it, study the photographs of the neck you are copying.

Cutting the sides of the peg box



  1. From the fingerboard end line "f" in the direction of the volute, start making incisions using your saw, about 1 cm apart, stopping 1 mm short of the marked template lines. End in the area of the throat. See Fig. 1 for more information.
  2. The little blocks of wood can now be removed with a chisel. Be careful to read the wood grain, do not try to chip away the whole block, work gradually in slices and from both sides.
  3. Saw off the little pieces forming the basic contour of the heel. To avoid undercutting, angle the saw slightly away from the heel. See the "c" cuts in Fig. 1.
  4. Using a flat rasp/file, reduce further the width of the pegbox up to the lines, make the heel round.

Cutting the volute



Look at the Fig. 2 and Fig. 3 to see the way in which the volute will be cut. The red lines denote incisions. The order of the cuts is not important but it makes sense to proceed as numbered. Always stop a mm from the template lines.

  1. Make the incisions no. 1-6 along the lines as in Fig. 1 and remove the resulting pieces of wood using a small shallow gouge.

    Notice that incision no. 7 has no boundary line at one end, as the template ends there.

  2. To make the cut no. 7 and to proceed on to the second set of incisions as depicted in Fig. 4, you need to draw a line in the middle of the volute, as in Fig. 3 /the red lines/, naturally extending the template lines.
  3. Make the cuts down to the lines as in Fig. 4 and remove the resulting pieces of wood using a small shallow gouge.
  4. Now the final part of the volute, leading to the eye, remains to be carved. Start creating the slope from the tip of the eye using a suitable gouge. See Fig. 5.
  5. Correct the volute so that it flows naturally and gracefully.
  6. Using a file, create a bevel on both edges of the volute and the heel.
  7. Use small gouges to give the volute an increasing depth, as it approaches the eye.

See the finished scroll in Fig. 6.
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Hello, firstly, I want to say how much I appreciate the work you have put into this site to provide some very useful information to us builders, especially to people like me who have no formal training in violin making. Could you clarify this point for me in the section showing the 1st set of cuts for the volute: "Notice that incision no. 7 has no boundary line at one end, as the template ends there." I don't understand the reference to a boundary line as cut #7 arrives to the edge of the scroll template as the other cuts do. It seems we need to wait until drawing the center line in the volute before proceeding with the 1st cut#7. I'm not clear on how you are saying to make cut#7. Thanks, Pierre Comtois - 2020-03-07 18:39:19
Hello Pierre, thank you for you kind words. As for the No. 7 cut, you are right, it lands at the end of the template, so you could make it before drawing the extension lines in Fig. 3 which really are there to support the second set of incisions. I hope it is clear to you now. Let me know if you need anything else. Have a good day, Vojtech Blahout - 2020-03-07 16:14:33
Hello, firstly, I want to say how much I appreciate the work you have put into this site to provide some very useful information to us builders, especially to people like me who have no formal training in violin making. Could you clarify this point for me in the section showing the 1st set of cuts for the volute: "Notice that incision no. 7 has no boundary line at one end, as the template ends there." I don't understand the reference to a boundary line as cut #7 arrives to the edge of the scroll template as the other cuts do. It seems we need to wait until drawing the center line in the volute before proceeding with the 1st cut#7. I'm not clear on how you are saying to make cut#7. Thanks, Pierre Comtois - 2020-03-06 19:11:56