Revision [5017]

Last edited on 2017-09-13 12:41:51 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 400px;'></div>
Deletions:
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 380px;'></div>


Revision [5016]

Edited on 2017-09-13 12:41:42 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 380px;'></div>
Deletions:
<div class='obrazek' style='height: 350px;'></div>


Revision [5015]

Edited on 2017-09-13 12:41:31 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
Normally, you buy a bridge blank **41,5 mm** wide for the 4/4 violin and carve it to get the best sound. See **Fig. 1** for a typical bridge blank.
You also need to decide which side of the bridge is the front and which is the back and the popular advice differs on the front/back orientation of the bridge. The long medullary rays mean stiffer parallel grain which presumably should be on the back (where there is also the manufacturer`s stamp) where there is more pressure.
~1) Put the paper strip on the violin top where the bridge should be, put the bridge on top of it, in its proper position and move half a millimeter from side to side to rub off some of the graphite on the bridge feet. Use only moderate force to avoid bending and inaccurate imprinting.
~1) Put the bridge in position with the help of two rubber bands, each band fastened to the foot at one end and to the lower corner of the back plate at the other.
Deletions:
Normally, you buy a bridge blank **41,5 mm** width for the 4/4 violin and carve it to get the best sound. See **Fig. 1** for a typical bridge blank.
You also need to decide which side of the bridge is the front and which is the back. The medullary rays on the back side should have more dots than slashes.
~1) Put the paper strip on the violin top where the bridge should be, put the bridge on top of it, in its proper position and move half a millimeter from side to side to rub off some of the graphite on the bridge feet. Use only moderate force to avoid bending and inaccurate readings.
~1) Put the bridge in position with the help of two rubber bands, each band fastened to the foot at one end and to the upper corner of the back plate at the other.


Revision [4940]

Edited on 2016-03-23 23:04:56 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
Burnish the bridge using a piece of paper with a bit of dry soap.
Deletions:
Burnish the bridge using a piece of paper with a little dry soap.


Revision [4939]

Edited on 2016-03-23 11:17:40 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Remove the bridge and offset the previously made marks **4.5 mm** higher on the E side and **5.5 mm** higher on the G side. Again see **Fig. 3**.
Deletions:
~1) Remove the bridge and offset the previously made marks **4.2 mm** higher on the E side and **5.2 mm** higher on the G side. Again see **Fig. 3**.


Revision [4938]

Edited on 2016-03-23 10:18:22 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Turn the bridge over and in the same manner rub its front to get the thickness of **4.7 mm** at the feet. To get to the 4.7 mm at the feet faster, you can use a sharp block plane (maybe holding it in your left hand upside down, while holding the bridge with the other) but be extremely careful not to chip away any of the fine tips and of course not to cut yourself. Keep checking the thickness often as it is easy to over-thin the feet this way.
~1) Now use a sharp knife and start removing the wood along the lines (always cut towards the bridge center to avoid chipping). Keep putting the bridge on the violin and work towards the back of the bridge being at right angles to the violin top. At the same time try to eliminate the gaps so that the bridge "sits" in full contact with the arching. Keep fitting until the bridge has no gaps.
~1) With your Vernier caliper transfer the width of **33-34 mm** onto the top of the bridge. Put it slightly to the G side as you did on the nut.
See **Fig. 7.** for the final thicknesses of the average bridge. To remove wood, you can use the bridge holder and a chisel or you can just hold it in your hands paring away the wood with your knife. For thicknessing, Vernier caliper can be used or the thicknessing gauge you used in the thicknessing of the plates.
The weight of the finalized bridge ranges usually slightly above 2 grams. See the [[Soundpost|Soundpost]] section for the possible relationship between the bridge and the soundpost.
Deletions:
~1) Turn the bridge over and in the same manner rub its front to get the thickness of **4.7 mm** at the feet. To get to the 4.7 mm at the feet faster, you can use a sharp block plane (maybe holding it in your left hand upside down, while holding the bridge with the other) but be extremely carefull not to chip away any of the fine tips and of course not to cut yourself. Keep checking the thickness often as it is easy to overthin the feet this way.
~1) Now use a sharp knife and start removing the wood along the lines (always cut towards the bridge center to avoid chipping). Keep putting the bridge on the violin and work towards the back of the bridge being at right angles to the vioin top. At the same time try to eliminate the gaps so that the bridge "sits" in full contact with the arching. Keep fitting until the bridge has no gaps.
~1) With your Vernier calliper transfer the width of **33-34 mm** onto the top of the bridge. Put it slightly to the G side as you did on the nut.
See **Fig. 7.** for the final thicknesses of the average bridge. To remove wood, you can use the bridge holder and a chisel or you can just hold it in your hands paring away the wood with your knife. For thicknessing, Vernier calliper can be used or the thicknessing gauge you used in the thicknessing of the plates.
The weight of the finalized bridge ranges usually slightly above 2 grams. See the Soundpost section for the possible relationship between the bridge and the soundpost.


Revision [4937]

Edited on 2016-03-23 10:09:14 by Vojtech Blahout
Additions:
~1) Now to transfer the arching of the plate onto the bridge feet, put the bridge in its position and put a thin strip of paper or plastic (no more than 0.7 mm) on the arching, behind the feet. Take a fine pencil and with moderate pressure, transfer the outline onto the back of the feet.
Deletions:
~1) Now to transfer the arching onto the bridge feet, put the bridge in its position and put a strip of no more than **0.7 mm** thick plastic on the arching, next to the feet. Take a fine pencil and with moderate pressure, transfer the outline of the top onto the feet.


Revision [4586]

The oldest known version of this page was created on 2015-05-23 14:54:04 by Vojtech Blahout