Almost all that applies to the front can be used when creating the back.

The wood is harder and carves differently. Bear in mind that deeply flamed wood is more difficult to plane. To prevent tear-out, a razor sharp plane with the mouth set to a minimum and the chipbreaker set very close are recommended. Also, for different parts, different planing directions may be needed. For me a 9 1/2 block plane works best.

Also, check the density of the block and make a note of it for future reference. Go for lighter wood {ideally maybe .55 density} which will allow you to end with a plate which has not more than 110 gr of weight.

The joining of the two halves can be a rubbed joint as with the front, but it is more difficult to make a perfect joint this way, so two sash clamps as in Fig. 1. are employed after the rub joint has been carried out.


The outline is identical, except for the place where the button will be. There, create a platform 22 mm wide and 15 mm tall. See Fig. 2. The final shape of the button will be finished later when the neck root is in its correct position.


The purfling for the back should be made of one piece for the top and bottom bouts.


The arching of the back may or may not differ from the front. In our case it is 16 mm high.
  1. Look again at the arching construction in chapter Arching, Fig. 3.
  2. Print out the arching templates for the back in Fig. 3. The template positions for the back are identical to those for the front.


The thickness in the cheeks is often half the thickness in the center.
  1. Bring the thickness down to 6 mm at the center and 3 mm in the bouts, see the chapter Graduations - back_plate for an example of final thicknesses and their distribution.